My first restaurant review: L'Ecole - The French Culinary Institute NYC

Yes, I know, I didn't go that far for my first restaurant review. This was another class assignement and indeed we students were offered a dinner at the restaurant of the school, L'Ecole, in order to review it.
These are my impressions...Bon Appetit!

Have you ever eaten in a school restaurant? This unique experience is possible at L’Ecole, the restaurant of the French Culinary Institute located at 462 Broadway, New York City. Everything you eat here is the product of the skills and training of the senior students of the culinary, pastry and bread departments. Behind the scenes lies the creative inspiration of the deans of the school, chefs Jacques Pépin, Alain Sailhac, André Soltner and Jacques Torres. They are the ones who “prepare students”, then students “prepare your meals” as stated in one of the photographs at the entrance of the restaurant.

There’s a lot of creation inside as the main wall which leads to the kitchen is covered with pictures of hands working on food, with a bigger one showing hands in the act of kneading. The atmosphere is casual with a touch of French class. Modern big round chandeliers on the ceiling give a hint of extravagance to the elegant environment. Service is good with a very pleasant, attentive and courteous staff. Although it is always very busy, the crowd enjoys his meal without being loud. No need to shout, music is very soft.

The five course dinner served from 8 to 9 pm includes an appetizer, a fish course, a meat course, a salad, and dessert for $42. It is a good value for your money.

The cuisine combines classic and contemporary French dishes with other ethnic influences taught at the institute. It is based on seasonal and artisan ingredients and changes every six weeks. A Chorizo Stuffed Calamari with Parsley Pesto is a good choice among the appetizers. The taste is delicate, lightly hot, with a fresh touch given by parsley pesto aroma.

All the courses come in very well presented dishes of different shapes, and the food is set to create nice geometrical patterns. However, sometimes, too much elaboration seems to be a little confusing to the palate threatening to cover up the authentic flavor of the raw material. The Mustard Crusted Lamb Loin with Potato Puree and Cabbage I ordered is an example of this. The meat itself was really tender and tasty, but the mustard crust was a little too sweet and did not seem necessary. There is a lot of experimentation, which one might expect in a school anyway. On the other hand in the Seared Salmon with Sweet Potato Puree and Pinot Noir Demi-glace, the soft, creamy, thick texture of the salmon was exalted by the sweetness of the demi-glace and the potatoes.

Nice tasty complimentary side dishes are offered between the courses, to open your senses to the flavors, like a Napoleon eggplant with garlic and basil, a mini pot of fresh steamed vegetables, a goat cheese sorbet topped with a sweet cracker accompanied with a pickled cinnamon pear.

The sorbet is the key that opens the gate to the realm of L’Ecole desserts. A side menu with all kinds of delicious pastries and cakes, like the Port Wine–Glazed Tart with Greek Yogurt Sorbet, a melody between the crunchiness of the buttery tart and the smoothness of the ice cream goat cheese heart, with a touch of seasonal figs. A Passion Fruit Baked Alaska and a German Chocolate Cake with Sour Cherry Compote and Caramel-Glazed Cherries are two valid alternatives to satisfy all the sweet lovers. Or, if you are cheese oriented, you might also try the “domestic delights”, artisanal domestic cheese selections offerings by farmstead cheese makers.

In order to pair each course with the right wine L’Ecole offers a wine by the glass list with a nice selection of international wines starting from $8, with the option of a 4- course wine pairing for $28. There is also a well assorted list of dessert wines and spirits. Sherry fans should not miss the Dessert Sherry Flight, 3 sherries for $20.

Eating at L’Ecole restaurant is an all- encompassing experience. It is s not only about your palate satisfaction since you feel you are at the final step in the education of some of the next generation of culinary stars. These guys are working hard for you. You are their very first judge.