When I close my eyes I see cannoli. No, I’m not cannoli obsessed or addicted, but I am simply fascinated by the American attraction to one of the most popular Southern Italian desserts and decided to go in search of New York’s best cannoli spots. Being an Italian-born and a sweets fan, I finally declared the Italian pastry shops to be my elected paradise in the city jungle.
The cannoli involves all five senses and beyond, straight to memory. It’s a beautiful, eye candy deliciousness consisting of a firm, crunchy tube fried shell covered by bubbles due to the use of wine (ideally, Sicilian Marsala) and a soft, sometimes thick, cream made with ricotta cheese, originally from sheep’s milk, although today ricotta from cow’s milk or even mascarpone is a common alternative. Nose and hearing are also involved in the cannoli experience, the first being sharpened by the icing sugar often sprinkled on the pastry just before it is served and the second by the act of biting the crispy shell. In the Italian-America recipe, the cream is often flavored with vanilla or orange flower water and a pinch of cinnamon. Chopped pistachios, semi-sweet chocolate bits, candied citrus peel or cherries are often still included, dotting the open ends of the pastry.
To be really good, cannoli must be fresh so as not to lose the soft-hard contrast between the smoothness of the cream and the crustiness of the fried shell. The best coffeehouses and bars in Palermo, where the pastry originates, offer cannoli espresso- filled while you wait.
When I came in New York I realized that cannolis here are a serious business. During the San Gennaro festival, celebrated in Little Italy in Manhattan in the last two weeks of September, a sort of king is elected at the cannoli eating competition. This year the crown was given to a guy from New Jersey, who polished off 13 cannolis in six minutes. Over 200 cannolis were brought out for the competitive eaters.
When I came in New York I realized that cannolis here are a serious business. During the San Gennaro festival, celebrated in Little Italy in Manhattan in the last two weeks of September, a sort of king is elected at the cannoli eating competition. This year the crown was given to a guy from New Jersey, who polished off 13 cannolis in six minutes. Over 200 cannolis were brought out for the competitive eaters.
When I searched the Internet for cannoli reviews I found forums where cannolis are debated: the best shape, the most fresh filling - with special consideration to those places where they fill the shell while you wait. I uncovered a cannoli triangle: the ”Little Italies” in Manhattan, in the Bronx and in Brooklyn.
Guided by my cannoli Cicerones, I first visited La Bella Ferrara, Caffé Palermo, Caffé Roma and Ferrara in Little Italy’s Mulberry Street. None of these places offer a cannoli - espresso service, however, I must say the best I found was the pastry from Caffé Palermo, because the cream was light, not too sweet and with a pleasant fresh orange flavor.
In the Village I went to Pasticceria Rocco on Bleecker Street, Bruno Bakery on La Guardia Place, Veniero’s and De Robertis, both on East 11th St. I liked Rocco and Bruno because they offered a very fresh pastry that they filled while you waited. I preferred the cream at Rocco, because Bruno’s one was too cheesy and a little too thick. Veniero’s and De Robertis offered two very similar pastries, garnished with chocolate chips, candied fruits and lemon bits. However they were not the best I had, with shells a little bit soggy.
It was time to explore my second Little Italy in the Bronx, where I experienced some of the best Italian bakeries in all New York. De Lillo, Madonia Brothers, Arthur Avenue Bakery, Gino’s Pastry Shop and Egidio are one close to each other in Arthur Avenue. Every pastry I savored in these shops was delicious, and what I really appreciated was a sense of the old Italian charm that I couldn’t find anywhere else in the City. I was home.
Taking the train back to Manhattan I realized I was leaving a true cannoli heaven, but there was a stop still missing. My cannoli web experts had long praised a place in Brooklyn, so I arrived at Villabate Pasticceria on 18th Avenue with great expectations. When I saw the place I was struck. I wasn’t just home, I was in Sicily.
This pastry shop is an amazing window to the greatest selection of authentic Sicilian specialties including all the typical Sicilian biscotti and pastries made with almonds and all sorts of cassata cakes. Every pastry here is a work of art. I soon started feeling a true cannoli vibe. Some of the cannolis I had tasted before were good, but just imitations of the genuine Sicilian pastry. Here I found the original, made with sheep’s milk ricotta imported directly from Palermo. This was definitely my ultimate cannoli in New York City, filled with deliciously smooth traditional sheep ricotta cream, infused with chocolate chips and sprinkled with just the perfect amount of powdered sugar.
If the guy from New Jersey is the king of Cannoli, I am the queen, and, I can tell you, the cannoli I had at Villabate Pasticceria won’t be finished in six minutes. It’s a never ending story.
No comments:
Post a Comment